‘Every Cook Ought to Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.

When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.

Javier Sanchez
Javier Sanchez

A London-based writer passionate about uncovering hidden gems in British culture and sharing practical lifestyle tips.